Peddocks Island: Prince Head and West Gut

The dune of the Prince Head on the Southeastern edge of Peddocks Island:

peddocks island

While not the largest Boston Harbor Island (that title goes to Long Island) Peddocks ranks second in area but has the longest coastline of any of the islands due to its three protruding bluffs or “heads.” The south side of the island is very densely wooded and contains at least two marshes. It also has some long stretches of beach, which are rocky in parts and sandy in others, with the dune sandbar spit of Prince Head, a particularly odd geological formation. A noticeable feature is that the South of the Island is wilderness,  quite a different landscape that the North head of the island, (which I visited last March and documented here) As the North head has a public dock, visitor center and the ruins of Fort Andrews, which we visited this past spring.

The large bluff known as Price Head sits strangely at the end of a narrow spit on the Southeastern side of Peddock’s Island:

Peddocks island

The Prince Head is an odd geological phenomenon, likely formed by a combination of years of tidal and wind erosion of the drumlin. The narrow neck connecting the head to the main island is less than fifty feet across and low tide, and is nearly obscured at high tide. The south side of the island forms a well protected cove between the Prince Head and the West Head. It is in this area where there is a marsh (pictured below):

marsh

The narrow neck to Prince Head near low tide:

peddocks island

Moving further west the area becomes very densely wooded, with the woods giving away to dunes and a very rocky beach (pictured below). Located at this very point is West Gut, a narrow area of water between Peddocks Island and Quincy’s Nut Island. Defined as a narrow body of water between two land masses, a “gut” is a geological feature that can be found twice on Peddocks: The other being Hull Gut on the North side of the island. For a better perspective, check out the nautical chart on the the last post about Peddocks.

boston harbor

Below is a view looking East from Peddocks, with the City of Boston in the distance:

peddocks island

Despite being relatively close to the major population centers of Quincy and Weymouth, South Peddocks can offer some desolate landscapes, like this one of the outgoing tide:

peddocks island

And this one, of some tidal pools, with Prince head in the background:

peddocks island boston harbor

Like many of the Boston Harbor Islands, Peddocks is littered with structures that have washed ashore over the years. Not being in the public eye of a well travelled area, these objects tend to accumulate and corrode.

beach trash

The silhouette of Prince Head in the background against an old pipe and valve  which  presumably connects some of the dwellings on the island to mainland:

peddocks island boston harbor

A panoramic view of Price Head, West Head and South Peddocks Island:

image-103

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68th anniversary of Victory in Japan

68 years ago today, on August 15th, 1945, the Empire of Japan offered unconditional surrender to the Allied powers. This marked the end of WWII. Days later, a treaty of surrender was signed in Tokyo Bay aboard the USS Missouri, America’s biggest and baddest battleship.

The “Big Mo” as she is referred to is pictured below, at her home port in Pearl Harbor, Hawaii, next to the USS Arizona monument.

victory in japan

Here is a post about some more battleships, cruisers and destroyers.

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Picture of the week: Boston sunset from Martins Ledge

Here is a shot taken last Sunday evening (8/11) which was a particularly clear night:

martins ledge

The location was Martin’s Ledge, which is a submerged rock outcrop about a mile East of Outer Brewster Island. It is marked with a “4” red buoy on its outer boundary. The ledge is a good place for fishing, and a popular location to go diving. It is also great for taking in panoramic views of the whole of Boston Harbor to the West, and the expanse of Massachusetts Bay to the East. From here, one gets a relatively unobstructed view of a sunset over the city, which is what you see here.

Here is a close up view of the #4 nun out at Martin’s Ledge. I don’t know what Martin’s Ledge is named for, but will try to find out. Martin’s is one of several rock outcrops lying around the Brewster Islands. I strongly suspect that the nearby Tewksbury Rock, lying between Martin’s Ledge and the eastern edge of Outer Brewster Island, was named for Captain William Tewksbury: He was the legendary captain of the Deer Island Lifesaving Station who made many a heroic rescue of distressed ships in the outer harbor.

boston outer harbor

A venture to Martin’s is only appropriate in a sturdy ocean worthy craft given its open ocean location and exposure to large wind fetch in all directions. I would not recommend heading out here in a small boat or kayak.

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Picture of the week: Rainbow over Castle Island

A rainbow over castle island after a strong midsummer storm last week:

rainbow

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Raccoon Island: Perhaps Boston Harbor’s least interesting island

Perhaps Boston Harbor’s least notable island, Raccoon Island sits inside the Fore River outlet on the Quincy (west) side. Here is a view of Raccoon Island from the water:

boston harbor

This small island has little known history that I am aware of, and lacks a modern purpose as well. This makes the island unique and gives it the distinction of Boston Harbor’s least interesting island. Other uninteresting islands include Sheep Island in Hingham Bay, and Snake Island off Winthrop. Below is a view of Raccoon Island (center) looking down from Great Hill in North Weymouth:

fore river

In the background of the picture above is the thickly settled Hough’s Neck in Quincy (left) and the West Head of Peddock’s Island (right). Below is a photo of Racoon Island from the beach at Hough’s neck. It is attached to land at low tide, but is too muddy to cross:

low tide quincy

Below is the view looking further up the Fore River from Raccoon Island, towards the Fore River Shipyard industrial area. Here one feels more immersed in a gritty urban environment than out on the Boston Harbor:

boston harbor

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Fishing off Minot and Cohasset Cove

A fishing boat sits off Cohasset Cove, early on a sunny July morning:

cohasset cove

The Minot area, located off Scituate and Cohasset is a good area for fishing and visiting by boat. We have written about it in the past (link here). Its a short and easy haul down from Boston Harbor on a calm day: less than ten miles from the Harbor’s entrance at Point Allerton. The challenge of minot is navigating the many rocks and ledges in the area.

Minot Light up close. A grave danger to boaters, Minot ledge extends far to the Southwest of the lighthouse. However, you can get pretty close from the Northeast as I did here (I don’t recommend trying this yourself, the towers sensors will pick up your craft and sound a rather loud horn).

boston harbor

The Grampuses, a group of particularly dangerous ledges outside Cohasset cove. A fair share of ships have gotten in trouble here over the years, such as the Brig St. John, which had made it all the way from Galway Ireland before sadly ending its journey on these ledges instead of Boston Harbor:

cohasset cove

A fisherman, focused and seriously at work:

cohasset

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Coast Guard Cutter Eagle visits Boston Harbor

The US Coast Guard Cutter Eagle entered Boston Harbor yesterday. Below is a photo of her as she made her way around fan pier:

boston harbor

The ship will be on display in the Charlestown Navy Yard this weekend. Originally named the “Horst Wessel”, Eagle was actually built in Germany and commissioned in 1936. It was then taken by the United States as a war reparation in 1946. Aside from the occassional trip to places like Boston, the Eagle sits in its home port at New London, CT. I once took a photo of the Eagle at its home port as I was chugging by in the Acela train to New York City: she can be seen in this post.

I did not have the Nikon with me, so this picture (taken with my phone camera) isn’t as sharp as I would have liked. Here is a broader shot of the Eagle at Fan Pier:

cutter eagle

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Picture of the week: Early Morning, Hingham Harbor

Last week’s unusual heat wave and calm overnight weather lead to very calm morning weather, which can be seen in this photo of Hingham Habor last week at around 6AM, when it as the appearance of a lake:

heat wave

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Long Island and Fort Strong

 Old unmarked graves, an overgrown and abandoned military fort, a well known history of government operations during WWII and a creepy lighthouse shrouded in dense dark brush: These are some of the things found at Long Island, Boston Harbor’s forbidden island which is closed to the public.

boston harbor

Long Island: Not only is there no public transportation here, the island is off limits to all visitors for reasons discussed below. I was lucky enough to have the opportunity to visit the island recently with FBHI, and see some of its oddities, which include long abandoned military structures, an old lighthouse dating to 1819 and some of the other strange parts of Boston history. Upon arriving, one sees the secluded lighthouse sitting alone atop of the island’s densely wooded northern dune (seen above) and ample signage warning boaters and explorers to turn away, like the one below:

long island

Long Island is the largest island in Boston Harbor in area. It is almost twenty percent larger than Peddocks Island, the second largest island in area, although Peddocks has more shoreline due to its protruding heads. Long Island has a variety of buildings that have been used for a variety of purposes over the years, including a hospital and addiction recovery center. The island also contains thousands of graves, many unmarked, which are thought to be those of Native Americans as well as unknown Civil War soldiers and quarantined patients who died of their illnesses. These are part of the reason for the island’s lack of public access, although it gets even stranger….

Long Island has quite the military history, much of which is less well known: At the top of the North head of the island lies the ruins of the Fort Strong, of which I included several photos below. Additionally, the middle part of the island was one used as a NIKE missile sight in the Cold War, similar to some other places around Boston Harbor, such as Webb Memorial Park on Weymouth Neck.  However, the strangest publicly known story about long island is that of Operation Paperclip, (documented by WBUR in 2010) whereby top Nazi Rocket scientists were smuggled here by the US government at the end of WWII to work for the US military and space program. Allegedly, they were initially smuggled to Long Island via Nix’s Mate.

Below is the lookout tower at the far east end of Long Island, overlooking Quincy Bay and  Rainsford Island:

fort strong

Long Island Light: At the top of the island’s North Head is Long Island Light, a large traditional looking lighthouse, which is probably Boston Harbor’s least well known. Today it is shrouded in deep vegetation, but becomes more visible without leaves in the winter months. Situated at the top of a high cliff, the light may even be visible in the distance from downtown Boston on a very clear day. The cliff on which the lighthouse sits perched atop is very steep: legend has it that when a lighthouse keeper once passed away during winter months many years ago, his coffin was dropped by pallbearers slipping on the ice, and subsequently slid all the way down the hill to the dock.

A view of Long Island Light up close:

Boston Harbor

The inscription “1819” remains on the steps of the lighthouse today, which is the date when the first lighthouse was built. The current structure, the third such lighthouse to sit in this spot, was built much later, in 1901. Its stairs are old and rusted out, and therefore  not recommended for climbing.

long island

Fort Strong: Built in 1899 and abandoned in 1961, Fort Strong is one of the more secluded and run down of the harbor island forts. Its walls of concrete, covered in efflorescence and crumbling in some places, are partially obscured by vines, weeds and even trees: overgrowth resulting from decades of abandonment. As one walks carefully along these walls, swallows leap from their nests below in alarm, not accustom to seeing human visitors.

Pictured below is one of the fort’s five batteries, each of which once held a larger eastern facing gun. Visitors should generally avoid this area as the concrete may no longer have structural integrity:

fort strong

View of the Fort Strong’s depth extending well below the batteries:

long island

Storage bunkers below Fort Strong:

long island

An old wall near the fort, overgrown and showing the signs of decades of abandonment:

boston harbor

The name “Kennedy” is painted in large letters across the roof of Fort Strong. The history behind this is unknown to me, but it is visible from the top of the fort and is also prominently visible when viewed on google maps. Check it out!

boston harbor

Nix’s Mate and Lovell’s Island from the Northeast shore of Long Island looking East:

long island

Long Island from shore: You probably can’t visit Long Island yourself, but you can see some of its structures rather well from offshore. These include Long Island Light, which is particularly visible in winter months when the leaves are gone from the trees, the large dunes and water tower, and Fort Strong’s lookout tower (visible in the photo below).

fort strong

The large dunes on the East side of the island, next to one of the abandoned buildings. With an elevation of nearly 100 feet, Long Island’s drumlins are some of the highest on the harbor, a fact that may be overlooked as large dunes are more often associated with Great Brewster and Peddocks Islands. This location is near the old coal wharf on the Eastern side of the island, which no longer exists, but is still visible on nautical charts, and can be seen in the distance in old photo of Fort Strong.

boston harbor

You may ask how I was able to take these pictures: I was lucky enough to be able to attend an event with the Friends of the Boston Harbor Islands, who obtained a permit to visit the island. You may be able to sign up to go with them on a future event, but don’t attempt to visit yourself. Here are some links where you can visit Friends of Boston Harbor Islands, and view our previous post about Long Island Light.

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Picture of the Week: Seaport terminal at night

I had the pleasure of being out on the inner harbor at dusk last week. Below is a photo of South Boston’s Conley Terminal, which was lit up to accommodate a large ship unloading its cargo:

boston harbor port

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